He has a lifetime of mechanical experience with older cars (although not mercedes). It wasnt a major problem, and once the car was warm starting up was no problem - I put fixing it on the back burner and enjoyed the car for a few months.įast forward to May 2020 and a friends dad hears me struggling to start the car, offers to take a look. Ill give some background at this stage, maybe it will help someone to diagnose or help someone with similar issues I got the car in mid 2019, it was running fine but was quite hard to start, then once it was running I had to hold a bit of throttle on until it warmed up - I suspected the automatic choke wasnt working as Id seen lots on the internet about the choke units causing problems. The Ruddies website has been very helpful, from there Ive been able to identify mine as a Stromberg 175CD (T- with automatic choke) Build 3 - as fitted from July 1973 to July 1976.Īs far as I can tell the difference post 1973 was the addition of the pierburg fuel cutoff solenoid.
#Stromberg 175 cd 2 manual free
I actually bought an old Zenith 175 that came from an old Range Rover for a tenner to see if I could make use of any parts from it - the piston is a lot more free on that when I lift it, when I take the damper out of mine it becomes similar - is there anything I can do on that front, I have ATF in there - is that too heavy Its very strange 190 - the richness adjustment screw if I screw it all the way in will lift the piston but its far too lean when its that far in, to get it to run I have to adjust the richness screw to a point where its down below the bridge, the piston is resting closed at that point as far as I can see Should it be letting more petrol through at a higher setting.ĭoes it have an automatic choke Does it work Is it adjusted correctly This is a pretty simple guide but covers the basics.Īccording to my old 190e Haynes manual, the float level should be 18-19mm.Īfter that adjust the idle speed screw which is the longer of the two, the other being the fast idle adjustment.ĪTF should be more than thin enough for the damper and the level should be up to the bottom of the inspection hole but its of no concern anyway a far as idle setup is concerned and neither is the diaphragm. The dashpot is simply a damper which slows the rise of piston and causes a temporary rise in air velocity in the venturi which in turn results in a temporary rich condition or accelerator pump affect. The normal throttle stops adjust how far open the butterfly is at idle but there is still a stop for the piston and adjustment of the needle height. There will be something that adjusts the position of the piston and needle at idle so if it wont idle its either that adjustment or the enrichment device. The air/fuel mixture preheating chamber used on pre-1972 models is located between the primary throttles in the carburetors and the secondary throttles in the intake manifold.How much oil should go in there Presumably too much will not allow the piston to rise properly Thanks.Īt idle the piston shouldnt lift at all and therefore the diaphragm has no effect. Within the SU carburetor, a temperature sensitive bimetal spring raises or lowers an adjustable jet to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio at changing fuel temperatures. This ratio is maintained despite changing fuel temperature. On the Zenith-Stromberg carburetor, a temperature sensitive bimetal spring (in the temperature compensator) actuates an air valve that varies the air supplied the venturi area, maintaining a constant air/fuel ratio. The temperature-regulated fuel mixture is accomplished differently on the Zenith-Stromberg carburetor than on the SU carburetor. Measures have also been taken to improve the operation and driveability of emission controlled engines such as a cold start device, a constant intake air temperature device and a hot start valve. Carbureted engines have incorporated many pollutant control devices, such as a temperature-regulated fuel jet, an air/fuel mixture preheating chamber, and a throttle bypass or over-rev valve.
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